More Than You Ever Wanted To Know About Lucite

This starts out very technical. bear with me.  I get to art soon.  Really!

Depending on your sources, lucite was invented in 1928 or 1931. It may, or may not, have been developed by DuPont. It may or may not have been brought to market by Rohm and Hass Company prior to being marketed by DuPont. Certainly DuPont produced it, but the German scientist Otto Rohm holds the patent dated 1931. Technically, it is a "synthetic polymer of methyl methacrylate"  or PMMA.  It's been sold under a variety of brand-names, the first being Plexiglass. The most common other names for it are "acrylic glass", or just "acrylic" and "lucite". Acrylic can also refer to other polymers or co-polymers containing polyacrylonitril (yeah right).  It generally takes 2 ounces of petroleum to create one once of lucite. I got most of that from Wikipedia, and if you think I understand what all those technical terms mean, you don't know me very well. 

Like bakelite, it was stronger than it predecessors, but unlike bakelite, they keep on making it today*. Also like bakelite, it tends to be brittle. Unlike bakelite, there is something they can do with rubber that helps with the brittleness.  Don't ask me to explain what it is they do.  I only know they can do it. 


*Technically, there are people making bakelite today, but they do so only to cash in on Bakelite's rarity. There is no commercial application for bakelite. There are only collectors. There are commercial applications for Lucite, and it remains in widespread production.  

In the 30's (1936 to be exact) the first acrylic safety glass was produced. During The War, it was used primarily for submarine periscopes, windshields, canopies, and gun turretts. 


Lucite lends itself to all general molding procedures. This includes injection molding, extrusion and compression molding. The highest quality lucite sheets are produced by cell caasting in which case the polymerization and molding steps occur concurrently.  It can be joined using cyanoacrylate cement, or superglue; also by heating; and also by using solvents such as di- or trichloromethane to dissolve the plastic at the joint which then fuses and sets, forming an almost invisible weld. Scratches on the surface can easily be removed by polishing it, or by heating it and doing something I completely fail to understand.



Sheets of lucite lend themselves well to lazer cutting.  I once got what promised to be some really smashing lucite hoop earrings.  Alas,  they had been cut from a thin sheet of lucite and the "artisan" - and I'm using the term loosely - just cut out the circles.  She didn't even bother to smooth out the edges. To say the least I was disappointed, though they look pretty good unless you're giving them the close up inspection. 


Methyl methacrylate "synthetic resin" for casting (simply the bulk liquid chemical) may be used in conjunction with a polymerization catalyst such as MEKP, to produce hardened transparent PMMA in any shape, from a mold.  What this means is,  that you can take stuff, and put it in a block of lucite, like so:

Jewelry makers have done all sorts of things with that, like make pendants out of bugs suspended in lucite.  None of this is my cup of tea, but other people must go for it because they keep doing it. 


Since the 1960's furniture makers have used lucite or acrylic to give their furniture a modern or "space age" feel, as shown below:

This chair is available at Muniz, Inc. at an unspecified price.  I am mad for it.  If it weren't high maintenance (and with the scratch buffing, I'm afraid the furniture is high maintenance),  I would furnish my house in lucite and mirrors.

In the 50's and the 60's, lucite became a medium for Mid Century Art Moderne sculpture: 

This Sculpture is available at Muniz, Inc. at an unspecified price.  They have lots of lucite  sculpture, and generally lots of cool lucite stuff. 

This female form sculpture is available at Etsy from SamuelsGallery for $4,200.00.  I must admit to being a bit stunned by the price,  but perhaps the artist is well known and has throngs of adoring fans?  

In the 50's and 60's, lucite became a medium of Jewelry, and Ann Primrose was it's master. I have presented three examples of her work below, and I covet them all! 
  

The twisted bangle bracelet above is available at Etsy from AnnPrimrose for $19.99 or on eBay  from ann_primrose for an opening bid of $6.99.  Given that vagaries of eBay bidding,  I don't know which one will end up being the bargain. But my! Aren't they divine?  I believe they are vintage old stock, but I could be wrong about that.  They have not yellowed with age, so they've been protected from cigarette smoke, and are free of scratches. If "old" is important to you, instead of just "cool",  I would suggest writing Ann and asking.

The edged bangle above is offered on eBay by ann_primrose for an opening bid of $7.99 or on Etsy from AnnPrimrose for $19.99.  Once again, I don't know which will end up being the bargain.  I believe these too are old stock and are in excellent condition.

The squared bangle above is offered by ann_primrose on Ebay for an opening bid of $7.99, or by AnnPrimrose of Etsy for $19.99.  At the risk of being repetitive, I don't know which of these will be the bargain either. And again, I believe these are old stock and are in excellent condition.


Ms. Primrose has also done a lot of work in colored lucite, both opaque and translucent.  This isn't my thing,  but see her collections on eBay and Etsy.  


After the mid 70's lucite jewelry languished for a while. Then came Pat Von Muselan who  brought it back to life with her wonderful, voluptuous work. Her jewelry is organic, dynamic and sculptural. One wants to touch it. It moves, it dances, it has life. It was coveted and covered by no less than Vogue Magazine, Cosmopolitan, Harper's Bazaar, Elle, Town and Country, and Architectural Digest. 

The bangle above is by Patricia Von Muselin, and is available on Etsy from Wendy Gell for $299.00  The next four works which follow are not for sale.

The works above, while not for sale, can be found on Ms. Muselin's website: Patrican von Muselin.  I could not find any of her work on eBay at present.  I must say this though,  now that is a lucite ring.

This Musulin Lucite Cuff above is available at Vivre for $650.00

The lucite dome ring by Ms. Musulin is available at Vivre for $225.00.  I can't help but mention that I've seen similar lucite dome rings on eBay in the under $10.00 range.

Ms. Muselan's work has been on the runway with both American and European designers such as Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Donna Karan, Bill Blass, Carolina Herrera and Geoffrey Beene. Her jewelry has also been featured in the advertisements of such products as Victoria's Secret, Absolute Vodka, Gap, Kohler, and Cover Girl.  Her work graces the permanent collections of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, The Boston Museum of Fine Arts, and the Smithsonian Institute.  


In the late 70's and 1980's, Judith Hendler began her ground breaking work in lucite.  Ms. Hendler, almost by chance, got her break supplying jewelry for Dynasty.  This work led to commission for Knots Landing, Days of Our Lives, and Hotel.  Her work has been collected by numerous celebrities, and has been seen in Elle, Harper's Bazaar, and - of course, Vogue.  Second Hand News featured a pair of her earrings in a previous issue. She's also on Facebook and has been kind enough to "friend" me.   She's even been kind enough to answer my fawning fannish messages, which I consider to be excessively kind.

A 70's Judith Hendler  - a rare find on eBay - for a starting bid of $225.00.  I love the Art Deco feel of this piece.

This wedge shaped frosted lucite piece was found on Ruby Lane for $675.00.  Repeat my feeling about Art Deco and Ms. Hendler's work.

Not for sale, these pieces of the "champagne" collection are so called due to the bubbles in the lucite. I just adore them.   

This example from her private collection makes the reasons for her success as clear as the lucite.

One of her many colored creations,  this amethyst necklace and earrings set is for sale at Midnight Glamour for $800.00.  There are lots of colored lucite pieces in lots of colors, so if that's your thing,  be sure and look for them.

But soon it wasn't just the artisan jewelry that was going for high prices.  It was the regular clear lucite.  Neiman Marcus began to sell it. 

The very same necklace above, the necklace I bought at eBay for $9.99, was available from Neiman's for $155.00. I wrote the seller on eBay, just because I thought they'd get a kick out of it. They wrote me back saying the Neiman's piece was crystal, then they wrote me back saying they didn't understand.  Their English is limited,  so I wrote them back and said as simply as possible it was easy to understand:  greed and profit.

This lucite bracelet was available from Lori's Shoes for $18.00 is an exact copy of an Alexis Bittar piece on sale Bergdorf-Goodman's for $495.00 (The Stir: Right This Moment: Lucite).  Personally, I'll take the one from Lori's Shoes.


Then Saks Fifth Avenue followed suit in carrying unreasonably expensive lucite. as did Macy's, Nordstroms, and a number of other high end stores. Lucite began to be seen on runways in Fashion week. From fashion week to fashion ads, below is Cindy Crawford, with her arm veritably dripping in lucite from the April Issue of Harper's Bazaar.

And from Harper's Bazaar to Marie Claire;  and from Marie Claire to Vogue.


And thus Lucite Chic became a phenomenon.


"Lucite jewelry can be found in a range of price points for every budget. Its popularity began to build last year, but has exploded this spring and will carry into summer and possibly beyond" (Pittsburgh Tribune) 

“Lucite pieces can be incorporated into day and evening wear. This is jewelry women can wear all year long because of its versatility." (Greg Andrews of Nordstroms)

“Because it goes with pretty much everything, you don't have to worry about trying to match your jewelry to your outfit” (Hedy Gold, Self Magazine)

Well, it had to happen. I'm astonished at myself for not seeing it coming. Prices have  begun to rise.  Not just at the high end stores.  Prices are rising at eBay. At Etsy. And at Ruby Lane and Ruby Plaza (which may or may not be the same thing).  I found no Lucite on Sense of Fashion, but there are lucite beads available on ArtFire, and I'm happy to report they remain reasonably priced.  So this, dear kittens, is the real reason for this post.  Lucite is going up. The time to buy is now!  

If you're buying designer, it may very well be worth the price.  But if your buying it - like me, because you think it's a kick and you like it -  check all* the lucite before you buy.  You could save yourself a couple of hundred dollars and still look chic.


*Rula77 is the go-to place for lucite jewelry.  They have great stuff, a wide selection, and they ship promptly.  I urge you not to buy any lucite without seeing if they carry it first.  English is not their primary language, so please be patient with them should you need to correspond with them.  


Along the same lines,  the release of the movie Burlesque is likely to drive up - at least for a while - the price of vintage "peek-a-boo" lingerie.  If this is your thing,  buy it now!  There isn't a moment to spare.
 
And with that kittens,  I bid you Good Shopping.


I've been on vacation.  I hope to have a real issue of the blog out soon!


Second Hand Roze

November 13 through November 20, 2010 (Or it was a good week for Schiaparelli)

Hello kittens!  I'm afraid this weekend finds me a bit disorganized and with a whole slew of demands upon my time,  so we shall do this as best we can. Once again, I have over-indulged,  and could carry on for pages and pages... So once again in the immortal words of Tim Gunn "Edit, edit, edit..."

Dorothea calls this stunning 60's cocktail dress "bright peony pink".  I think that's a lovely turn of a phrase, so I'm going to keep it. I just love the lines of this gown! So unusual! The bodice all moves towards the lovely silk and velvet flower on the right, and then from the waist down, the skirt moves - in layers of sweet silk - outward, forming a cocoon sort of line, reminiscent of some of Poiret's designs. Found at Dorothea's Closet (you'll need to move down towards the bottom of the page to find this dress), Dorothea notes that there has been some repair to wear behind straps in fronts, but none of this is visible while you are wearing this stunning dress. The dress is silk and fully lined and secures with a back metal zipper. The are no stains or other issues. Measurements for the gown are as follows: bust - 36"; waist - 26"; and hips - 40". The bodice measures 16" and the garment is 42" long. This lovely dress can be yours for $225.00.

I completely failed in finding you a nice vintage Lilli Ann this week.  None of my private sources had one in stock, and those on eBay had either been listed by me before, or the moths had found them before I did. So instead, I've found you a couple of really lovely, well tailored suits that may not quite have the flair of a Lilli Ann, but are suits I could proudly wear. This fabulous 40's suit was found on eBay from seller Marie92001. I wish this photograph could show you some of the fine work that went into making this suit.  it is full  of little touches to make it special.  

Don't you love those little loops of fabric at the hip? And look at the finely turned cuff of these sleeves! The suit lacks a label, but it is believed that the suit is made of a wool blend. The jacket is lined, and there has been some staining to the lining (only the lining) of the jacket in the underarm area. The jacket sports six cloth covered buttons, all of which are still firmly intact. The bust measurements of the jacket are 38". Sleeve lengths are 23", and the jacket measures 23" from shoulder to hem. 

The skirt is not lined and secures with a lucite button and a zipper. The waist of the skirt measures 28", and the hips in this rather full skirt measure 38". The total length of the skirt is 30 1/2" - which I consider to be practically perfect. The buyer has estimated the suit to be a size Medium, according to eBay guidelines for vintage garments.    

The suit includes a smashing matching neck-scarf to ward off that winter wind in the worst of weather.  

This garment has a Buy It Now price of $149.00, but is also accepting offers. And kittens, if you are interested, I fully expect you to make an offer and not just hand over $149.00! 

I found this simply marvelous purple velvet party dress from the 1950's at ArtFire.  Made by Meg Madison this is new, old stock, so the velvet all still has a nice nap to it. The wide neckline emphasizes the increasing folds of fabric the culminate in the lovely bow at the waistline which is further enhanced by pleats around the hips. The skirt has a simple kick pleat in the back and secures with a back metal zipper. The dress fits like a size medium with measurements as follows: 16" shoulder to shoulder; 38" at the bust; 30" for the waist; 38" at the hips; and 44" from shoulder to hemline.  The dress is in mint condition.  Offered by OneTrickChassis for the stealing-it-price of $68.00.

This stunning and oh-so-mod Marimekko Mini was found at Viva Vintage. Created by Annika Rimala for Marimekko, this cotton print tunic dress is made of a large fish-scale print from 1965. The dress features an unusual front metal zipper and is created in a loose, box like pattern that frees the wearer from the need from any of the confining undergarments of previous eras. These were the garments that allowed women to burn their bras! The bust measures 36" for an easy fit, though laying flat, the bust line measures 40". The waist is free and the hips are approximately 38", though they measure 42" laying flat. In excellent condition, this garment should be of interest to any collector of iconic 60's fashion, and is for sale at a well justified $95.00.

Though obviously not vintage, I just couldn't stop myself from listing this fabulously ruffled and roomy handbag from Sense of Fashion. I usually loath large bags, yet I carry so much stuff they are a necessary evil. I love this one! Measuring a roomy 33" x 19", you could pack your lunch in a bag this size! Offered by ever chic, liberty27 for $49.99, about $100 less than I expected.  

This seller also has a rich and varied selection of leggings. The re-emergence of leggings as a fashion essential is a God-send to little old ladies like me who are a wee bit shy of bearing our legs, and still unable to turn down those fabulous minis! From silver lame to mickey mouse (of course I'm not kidding! Kittens,I would never kid you about Mickey Mouse), liberty27 has the right leggings for the look.

I almost fainted when I found this Elsa Schiaparelli "Vamp" gown on Etsy. I wish a bit more effort had been placed into describing the gown, rather than photographing the gown in an artistic manner or applying appropriate makeup.  I am interested in the gown.  Sadly, there is no photograph of the gown without the model in some wild position, so it's difficult to get a feel for the lines of the gown.  I adore the large pink bow and sash, and I believe I really like the pink and white chiffon peignoir. The bottom of the gown is edged in the same deep pink that is used on the sash, or it may even be a few shades deeper. The gown has not been cleaned and has a yellow stain (I know not where or how large) and the robe has "small stains" (I know not how small is small or how many stains there are).  The gown is being sold by BoudoirQueen of Los Angeles and Austin for the "as is" price of $185.00.  A steal for a Schiaparelli. Alas, I have absolutely no size information. None. I'll say a prayer for the dry cleaning.

There is nothing so timeless and effortlessly chic as an Hermes Scarf, and I found this one among the rich (and rapidly vanishing) collection at Jewel Diva. (scroll down the page a bit to find this. It's a pleasant trip!) Made, naturally, of 100% silk in the softest of blues, the palest of lavenders, the richest of golds, the most iridescent of pearls, and a hint of green, the scarf depicts a variety of tassels. The scarf measures 35" X 35" and is signed Hermes Paris, Pasementerie. Available for $275.00

The word "stunning" is inadequate to describe this breath-taking 1920's rose and gold lame jacket from 1st Dibs. The way the rose is almost indistinguishable from the gold, giving the entire garment the sense of being iridescent or warmed by some unseen fire. Worked into this lovely lame fabric is an oh-so-subtle leaf motif, that can only be discerned on close inspection. The sleeves has a subtle bell shape, and the jacket was made to be worn open and has no closures. The bust measurement on the garment (and I can only assume this was taken with the sides closed) is 38".  From shoulder to shoulder is 15". Sleeve length is 23"; and from the top of the neckline in back to the hem is 27". Offered by The Way We Wore for...oh my goodness. It sold. This very day. I briefly debated taking it out of the blog,  but it is too lovely to miss, so in it stays.

I found this magnificent psychedelic Roberta di Camerino gown on eBay. Primarily known for inventing the "status" handbag, Roberta di Carmerino's couturier was founded after the war in Italy by Guiliana Camerino, an Italian Jew. The name Roberta was taken from the film of the same name starring Fred Estaire and Ginger Rogers. The film's theme song "Smoke Gets In Your Eyes" was the last song she danced to before fleeing for Switzerland before the war and the name became a reminder of happier times. The fashion house of Roberta di Camerino was opened in 1945, after the war. Many of the fabrics she used were woven on antique looms to help support local industry in post-war Italy. (Wikipedia) This garment is appropriate to an American S-M. Do Not Rely on the size 48 shown in the label! Vintage and modern sizes are quite different! I shall leave it to you to check eBay for the dimensions, as frankly, the endless repetition of these measurements is tedious and I believe I am giving this up (notice is hereby served). The primary design of this garment is continued on the back and is set against a teal background. This design incorporates aqua, taupe, and black to create the look of several layers of fabric and a sash with the "R" logo in the center. The taupe frankly looks grey to me, but I am relying on the seller's sense of color and assuming the photographs have been tinted somewhat. Made of luscious silk jersey, this gown is in mint condition with little or no signs of wear. The seller does warn of a tiny snag on the hemline, but this is hardly worth mentioning. The gown is lavishly photographed on eBay for your perusal. Offered by vintagedesignparadise1 for a Buy It Now price of 850 British Pounds, though the seller is accepting offers. If you fancy this gown, seize that opportunity and make your offer!  

I'm just wild about this oriental brocade 60's coat found at Etsy. Made of gold lame and brocade, this fabulous coat is cut in an "A" line design and features a nehru collar. The fabulous fabric either pictures peonies (wealth) or chrysanthemums (longevity), and either roosters (virility) or phoenix (same symbolism as in the west), or - my guess! - cranes (longevity). I'll leave it to you to decide as I've included a close up of the fabric below:

Done in gold, black, red and white, this dress could rock that Little Black Dress, and is equally appropriate for a fine restaurant, or for the Opera. It is a one button "fly away" coat, and is roughly a size medium. The coat has some discoloration to the lining, but is in otherwise excellent vintage condition. Offered by Mythunderstood for $305.00. I've had the privilege of doing business with this wonderful lady, and she will bend over backwards to make her customer's happy, so buy with confidence.

Since Valentino stopped production in 2008, his clothing has become even more collectible, and thus harder to find. This vintage 70's Valentino gown was found at Kitty Girl Vintage. Made in sarong style of silk crepe, this strapless gown is slit all the way to there! The skirt is decorated in dramatic white sequins forming dots (and I do so love a polka-dot dress!), the dress is very mod and chic. The photos of the gown are positively enormous, though they will size down to your browser when you click on them. To overcome this, simply copy them once you've clicked on them, and paste the result in Microsoft's Paint program (Mac users, you are on your own). This will allow you to see the stunning detail of the application of these sequins! The gown fastens with a side nylon zipper, the bodice is supported with stays, and a long crepe sash is attached to the gown at the waist. Size small and in excellent condition. The gown sells for $295.00.

These oh-so-Audrey chic sunglasses are available at Etsy. An 1980's reissue of a 1960's design, I have these glasses in tortoise shell, here they are offered in simple black. I had my tortoise shell glasses changed into prescription eye-wear, and I must warn you, if you buy these with that intention, be sure to take them to a very experienced and cautious professional, as the plastic is getting old enough to be brittle and will require patience to heat and bend. They called me at least twice saying "Ma'am, these may break..." and I told them merely to do the best they could.  Turns out, I have the least expensive and most mod frames I've ever had. I couldn't be more pleased. Available from starstruckladies for a mere $12.99. It should go without saying that they make truly swinging sunglasses as well! (The tortoise frames are still available for $10.99 if that is your preference.) 

This 1980's Gianni Versace color block knit dress has a decidedly 1960's flavor. Found at 1st Dibs. The dress is entirely black and white on the back, and has ruching at the neckline. The wide neckline made a zipper unnecessary, and this is an over-your-head type dress. I appreciate the simplicity of design, but hate what this type of dress will do to a well sculpted hairstyle or how difficult it is to keep makeup off the front of the gown. Sadly, the dress has been scantily photographed, and the seller has little to say about the dress. I'm not even sure what size it is, and no measurements are offered. Priced at $1,800.00, I believe any serious intention to purchase this dress must be accompanied by a conversation with it's merchant to cover such details as size and condition. Offered for sale by VintageFashionInc.  

I just adore these Schiaparelli carved glass rose earrings with art glass. Found on eBay for an opening big of $45.00, an unheard of price for vintage Schiaparelli jewelry!  Featuring (for each ear) a large carved clear glass rosette stone, a marquis cut peach colored stone, and 7 smaller stones in pink and clear colors. The earrings are clearly stamped with the Schiaparelli label, and should go for well over $100 when bidding closes on November 19th at 9:54 eBay standard time. Offered by Pins4upins4me.    

With the exception of Edwardian Lawn Dresses, I usually stay away from white dresses,  they feel too "bridal".  And I must say, this dress could make a bride on a budget a killer wedding dress!  Found at Etsy, this slinky 1980's lace dress is beautifully draped and ruched. I am a sucker for hankerchief hemlines and this one is certainly no exception. I love the criss-cross of the bodice, and the simple straight-forward use of lace in the sleeves. The dress is made by Just Maggie and is a size 5, more a 4/5 than a 5/6. The dress is lined, made from rayon/acetate (and don't you dare try to hand wash it!) and features a rear zipper. Offered, in beautiful vintage condition, from adVintageous at the startling low price of $31.50. 

Like everything I'm writing up from this seller, these shoes are not vintage. But my! Aren't they chic? The come in solid black and white, but I like the hint of watermelon red thispair offers. A photo of the other choice can be found through the "Sense of Fashion" link, so make up your own mind. From Liberty27 on Sense of Fashion, these shoes are available from size 6 through size 8. The heels on these babies are a killer 4 1/2" high! These shoes are available for $49.00, a steal if I've ever seen one. I have a feeling Liberty27 will be going out on her own and raising her prices soon, so enjoy while you can!  

This "paste" bird and jewel comb from France dates to the 1900's and is excellent example of French art nouveau in women's accessories. Found at 1st Dibs, some of the silver is a wee bit dark at the top of the teeth of the comb, but the body of the top seems to be in excellent condition and all the stones are still nice and bright. I suspect the stones are actually carved Czech crystal, and it's worth noting that there is no backing to any of the prong-set stones. Their sparkle is all their own! Rendered in a lovely sparrow and leaf motif, this comb is offered by The Way We Wore for $650.00.

One of the finely tailored suits I tried to find you in this dearth of Lilli Ann's,  this Italian vintage 70's suit is 100% virgin wool with velvet trim. Found on eBay, this suit is actually a deep burnt orange and not red. The suit features two velvet trimmed pockets along with four velvet covered buttons on the jacket. The same velvet trimming appears on the lapel and on the four button sleeves. The suit is fully lined in silk. There is a small (tiny) stain on the skirt (looks like ink) which is not visible with the jacket on. Dry cleaning may remove this stain, and I recommend spraying the stain with hairspray (yes, hairspray) before taking it to the dry cleaners. The seller estimates the size at a medium, though I strongly encourage you to read the full measurements at the website and compare them against a garment which fits you well. Offered by vintagedesignparadise1 for an opening bid of only 9.99 British Pounds.  Be aware that there are 6 days of bidding to go.

Though I may have fooled you, this is not a vintage handbag.  Made by Mary Frances, the new goddess of the handbag,  this jewel was found on eBay. New, but without it's original tag, this bag is a stunning combination of black and brown feathers created on a black satin base. The frame of the bag is jeweled, featuring a stunning combination of browns, copper, amber and deep ruby red against a gold background. The center stone is clear. The bag has a removable beaded shoulder strap that is jewelry in its own right. The bag is 8" wide by 3" deep, so it's not going to carry a whole lot besides your mad money, your id, and some lipstick. Included in the auction is the bag's original storage bag to protect it from dust and moths. If you are unfamiliar with Mary Frances handbags, I beg you to do a search on eBay or Google and see what you've been missing.  These bags are art, and they make me want to start embellishing handbags! Offered by yctldy for $159.00. Act quickly kittens.  This sale is over in 3 days.

In 1954, Elsa Schiaparelli wrote her autobiography, Shocking Life. And it had been one.  Born in September 1890, Schiaparelli came from an old and established upper class Italian family. Her father was dean of the University of Rome and a noted authority on Sanskrit. Her uncle was a famous astronomer, Giovanni Schiaparelli, after whom are named particular craters on both the moon and on mars.  As a young woman, Elsa studied philosophy at the University of Rome and published a book of sensual poems that so outraged her conservative family that she was sent away to a nunnery. 


She went on a hunger strike and secured her release at the age of 22 when she went to London, having accepted a job as a nanny. She believed that her social status and financial means were stifling her creativity and removed herself from "the lap of luxury" with all due haste. She moved first to New York City, and then to Paris where she established herself as a surrealistic couturier. 


While in New York, Elsa married Count William de Wendt de Kerlor, a Swiss theosophist. They moved to New York in 1921,  but her husband abandoned the family shortly after their first child, later to be known as Gogo Schiaparelli, was born. 


Surrounding herself with surrealists and dadaists, Elsa moved to Paris to be in the center of this artistic movement. Though her couturier had a shaky start, but 1931, her shop moved from Rue de la Paix to the Schiap shop in the place Vendome. Her innovations in the world of fashion are too numerous to mention, but perhaps the most influential was that of the modern idea of fashion show including a runway with music and art. Literally hundreds of super models owe their careers to Elsa Schiaparelli.


In 1934, Time Magazine placed Schiaparelli as one of a handful of houses "now at or near the peak of power as arbiters of ultramodern haute couture...Madder and more original than most of her contemporaries, Mme. Schiaparelli is the one to whom genius is applied most often." It should be noted that Mme. Chanel was placed in the second division of fashion.


Sadly Elsa Schiaparelli never adapted to post-war fashion. She had abandoned her beloved Paris and rode out the war in New York (Coco Chanel, on the other hand, did her best to get along with the Nazis). After a post-war effort to re-establish herself in the greatly changed fashion atmosphere of 1945 and beyond, in 1954 - the same year her rival Coco Chanel launched her landmark modern collection - Elsa Schiaparelli closed down her Paris couturier and returned to New York to - among other things - write this book.  Elsa Schiaparelli died on November 13, 1973.


This first edition found on eBay from superphonic-records is available for the Buy-It-Now price of $120.00, or the seller is accepting offers.

This finely tailored 1950"s cinched waist, double breasted suit was found at Viva Vintage Clothing. Made of black and white tweed textured rayon, this could - conceivably - be called a jacket dress, as the skirt is actually attached to a silky rayon under-bodice that was never meant to be seen and is somewhat sheer. Still, to the modern eye, it is not immodest, and presented correctly, one could take off the jacket without raising an eyebrow. The double breasted jacket is decorated with four large black buttons and two more matching buttons decorate the back section of the peplum. The jacket has a wide lapel forming a "V" neckline and is just low enough for a tiny part of that black under-bodice to show through. It has long straight sleeves and is lined with acetate.  The seller expressed some concern that there may have been shrinkage of the lining which keeps the sleeves from hanging correctly,  but I have inspected the suit from all angles and cannot find this supposed flaw. The seller also makes mention of a small amount of fraying on one button hole. A close up photograph is provided, and I am all aflutter at the seller's particularity, as I wouldn't have given this "flaw" a second thought and have seen much worse in "new" garments. A few snips of the cuticle scissors and the problem is gone.  A suit which could move seamlessly from the office to cocktail hour with the proper change of accessories! The seller provides measurements, but no size. I am going to call this a size small, a 4, or perhaps a 6. This suit sells for a bargain $95.00. Viva Vintage Clothing has made many photographs of this suit available to potential buyers.

I think this eBay seller made a strategic error in photographing this lovely 60's brocade top with jeans.  It should be shown with a brown or possibly a gold lame pencil skirt. This richly colored and metallic top is far more formal than jeans could convey. This floral brocade over brown-brushed nylon (polyester? possibly lurex? There is no content tag), is lovely and has obviously been influenced by the pop-art of the period in the shape of the flowers. Despite this photographs appearance of a black background, the actual colors of the top are brown gold and silver. The bottom flairs in an affectation of a peplum. The top features a lovely square neckline and long slim sleeves. Darts and princess seams create a lovely hour glass shape, even when the wearer is not graced with such charms. Fully lined in sheer silk chiffon, made accessible by a back zipper, and hemmed with brown grosgrain ribbon. Sized small, this top is available from herwheels for an opening bid of $9.95. If it fit me, I would be beside myself in pleasure, but alas, I am too long waisted for it. 

These "fierce" tiger shoes were found on Etsy.  The seller describes these 80's shoes as being made of "leather fabric", careful inspection of the photos have lead me to believe this is an interesting way of describing suede.  Unfortunately, they have some scuff marks on the toes, but are otherwise in good vintage condition. Featuring pointed (though not sharp) toes and 3 1/2 heels, these shoes are offered by adVintageous for the bargain price of $25.20.


I should mention this seller also offers a double strand of faux pearl for the reasonable price of $18.00.  Having recently been shocked by the price a simple strand of faux pearls can command, I find this quite impressive. In fact, if they disappear suddenly, I may be the guilty party. But I'm not planning at present on buying them, so I am sharing this priceless information with you. They are decent faux pearls too. Nicely knotted between each pearl and measuring approximately 18", though I do not know if this is the shorter strand or the longer strand.

While at first I thought this was a mini dress, even I must admit that 26" from shoulder to hem is too short to be anything other than a top. This particular 60's top is from designer Pierre Cardin, who lost a lot of his cool and mod after the 60's. Found on eBay, the incredibly mod cutout at the neckline is iconic for the 1960's. Made of a cream colored wool blend, the top is partially lined and in near mint condition. It has a hidden side zipper and a matte satin edged hem. Size small, this top is offered by june.the.first for the inflated (mho) Buy-It-Now price of $398.00.  I look forward to seeing if this sells.    

Called "The Annie Glasses",  I can only assume this is after Annie Hall.  I adore these sunglasses.  Found at Nasty Gal Vintage these tortoise shell frames will go with anything, and should lend themselves well to becoming prescription glasses provided you take the right precautions.  Available for $40.00. 

The lines of this 1940's dress are just stunning! New Old Stock, this dress still has its original tags on!  The dress is very strangely made. The back zipper does not go all the way up to the top, and the shawl collar is tacked on, instead of being a fully integrated part of the garment. I love the self belt at the waist, and the way the skirt does not begin until the high hips. Finally - strangely - someone tacked a shoe clip inside of the garment.  

Bear in mind the damage is only to the inside of the garment, but what a strange thing to do! I might ask for a closeup photo of the corresponding front of the garment to be sure none of the thread pulls have marred the appearance. I do recommend a brooch or a dress clip for the "v" of the shawl collar to make the dress look complete, but under no circumstances do I recommend a shoe clip for this job! A size small, this lovely dress is made in a beautiful cafe au lait color of unknown fabric. My best guess from the photos is this is a gabardine. Please note:  the seller has a note in  the auction listing about having acquired the stock of a large theatre company.  As this is new old stock, this is obviously not part of that purchase. I think she just has a template for all her auction listings. I do wish she had given us a peak at the label of the garment. It is obviously there from the seaming at the back of the neck. Sold by Marie92001 for a Buy-It-Now price of $250.00.  The seller is also accepting offers.

If I had my way, a well dressed lady would still never go anywhere without a hat and gloves!  There are few things I love as well as a well turned hat, and isn't this one fabulous? Found on eBay, this lovely 1980's "fascinator" hat is made of stiff mesh and feathers. Offered by vintagedesignparadise1 for an opening bid of 9.99 British Pounds.  

The final sunglasses of this issue, I promise! These striking 1960's lucite sunglasses are so mod they just jump off the page at 1st Dibs!  Made of two layers of lucite, the surface is white with laminated tinsel over a black lucite background. The arms are clear mottled lucite. Engraved with "Lumar 970", these sunglasses are offered by The Way We Wore for $350.00.  The sunglasses are in excellent condition.

This suit may be THE find of the week.  This iconic 1960s Chanel Boucle Suit is simply perfect. Found on eBay this Holy Grail of Chanel Suits is made of a navy wool / wool blend boucle with a waffle weave texture. The suit features the iconic 60's short boxy shape coupled with bracelet sleeves and a notched collar. The buttons are Mlle. Chanel's favorite: the gold lion head. Four buttons secure the jacket and one button secures each of the sleeves. The suit is fully lined in blue silk. The skirt appears to have been hemmed, and there is about 3" of fabric should the new owner wish to lengthen the suit. Oddly, the skirt has zippers on both sides. The seller estimates the size at a US size 6, or a European size 38. The suit is in excellent condition  Offered by modwoman for a Buy-It-Now price of $4,995.00.  This price is not negotiable.

I couldn't possible do an issue of Second Hand News without including at least 1 piece of lucite jewelry.  Found on Etsy, this "tusk" necklace is made of quality heavy weight lucite and is a one-of-a-kind artist piece. I happen to own the earrings that match this necklace, and they are fabulous! Created of all vintage lucite beads, there is only the normal wear one would expect of vintage lucite, some light scratches, and scuffing. In the earrings, I found these to not be noticeable at all! Offered by Mythunderstood for $68.00.


And with that kittens,  we have wrapped up another week.  


Happy Shopping!!!


Second Hand Roze